No paint glaze?

[jjkrol]

We have a church window section to repair that is 38 inches above the ground.  The panel is set into a steel frame.  I need to rent a boom arm lift outside and another lift inside to properly remove this panel.  After the panel is repaired, I need to rent the lifts again to install.  Since the panel is puttied into the steel frame, I wonder if anyone is familiar with any product that takes well to steel and does not need to be painted, or can be painted that day.  To paint the putty later will mean renting a lift again and the cost goes up.  We all struggle against the costs, but above all, I do not want to sacrifice the quality of the installation.

[jjkrol]

I really meant 38 feet.  38 inches would require really small lifts.

[Tod]

I'm surprised not to see any replies to this question.

I suggest visiting your local hardware store and asking there. I do know that there are glazing compounds you can use in a gun, maybe there are other nifty new products that would meet your needs?

I'd sure consider using ladders or a professional painter, instead of the lift, if you really do need to paint the putty.

My 2? worth: I thought I had learned years ago that you don't have to paint some (or all?) metal sash putties. Below is an address for DAP with technical info about their #1012 putty for metal sash. I also copied a bit from that site regarding painting, FYI. Remember that this is an excerpt.

- Tod

http://www.dap.com/docs/tech/00010402.pdf

? Under most conditions, a firm set will be attained in 7-21 days. The drying time is approximately three weeks, depending on temperature, humidity, air movement, sunlight and fill volume. The compound will not suffer damage from casual fingering at this stage. However, the sash should be operated carefully to avoid possible adhesion loss. Full adhesion will develop within two to four months, depending on the job conditions.

? Does not require painting. If painting is desired, glazing may be painted with oil or latex-based paint after it has skinned over and attained a firm set (7-21 days depending on temperature, humidity and volume of fill).
Prime first with oil-based primer if using latex-based paint. When painting is being done, the paint line should overlap onto the glass on the face portion, as well as the bedding area of the sash and glass.

[jjkrol]

Thank you for your reply.  Your suggestion is initially good, however, like most glazing compounds this one is not recommended for stained glass by the supplier:

Suggested Uses:
Ideal for face glazing metal window frames.
NOTE: Do not use DAP? ?1012?? Glazing for windowpanes over 48 inches in any dimension. Do not use
DAP? ?1012?? Glazing for glazing wood sashes, porcelainized steel insulating panels, insulated glass units
with organic seals, composite or composition panels, plastic windowpanes, channel glazing or for
stained/leaded glass projects.

When I have run into this caution before, like Dap 33, I have called the company and their tech department confirmed that it was not intended for using to glaze stained glass into sashes.

[Tod]

Oops! Sorry about that. I wonder what the issue is?
And, I wonder about the difference between using it for "stained/leaded glass projects" and glazing a basically non-porous item into a sash? Does it react poorly with the lead?

Pondering the imponderables - Tod

[jacquibush]

The reasons that I heard is that they do not want to be responsible for teaching and support of that use of their product.  We have used both and have not had any issues.  If you are still leary of it, there are several putties made that can be purchased at stained glass shops specifically for puttying.  Or you can look up recipes on the internet.  Just remember is you use cement in the mixture - you may have to repair it one day and the cement makes it a little tougher to remove broken pieces and to clean others.

[jjkrol]

I have had further correspondence with DAP.

Their reply was:  The primary concerns are exposure to lead compounds and glass movement.

As a substitute to DAP I was wondering why not use my panel putty, because for years I have been using a Kitchenaid Mixer to mix it.  I do only trust my own formula.  The point is the Kitchenaid, with the paddle, mixes it to such a consistancy as to make it very sticky.  It grabs so tight to everything including the bowl which is a big headache to clean.  I wonder....... if the bowl is stainless steel and the putty sticks as hard as it does, why wouldn't it work on the steel frame?  Anyone have any thoughts?

[rpettyjohn]

 Here is the best putty I have ever used. Please try it.  Mix 2-3 parts whiting with boiled linseed oil.  Mix in a very small amount of lamp black until you get the consistency you want.  Also add a splash of Japan drier to help harden once used.  If putty is too dry slowly add more oil until you can put your fingers into it and pull them back out without putty sticking to them.  You want putty to be wet enough to fill all cracks in lead between glass.  After applied use a sharp tool to take excess putty out.  Pull tool at an angle to ensure putty is filled in cracks.  It usually take a couple of days to dry.  Try doing one side at a time and letting lay flat to harden.  Then flip and do other side as before.  After both sides are sealed,  take a sharp tool and clean all leads lines for a proffesional finish and reclean.  Whiting and sawdust chips make the best cleaners.  It is messy but guaranteed.